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”The Evaluation” by Jordan Donohue-White: a scientific review of Andrea Strata’s Perfumery Tools

 

To Download ”The Evaluation” as a PDF click here

 

Summary

Between the classic mouilliette and the other perfumery tools, there are obvious differences in design and appearance.  But do these two types of novel evaluation devices have any effect on how the fragrance actually smells?
Two different types of fragrances were evaluated.   An oriental, Shalimar by Guerlain, which is heavily balanced towards base notes; an Eau de Cologne, Jean Marie Farina Extra Vieille by Roger & Gallet, which is more balanced towards top notes.
In this experience 0.02 g of the fragrance composition was applied at the same time to the following types of objects:  A classic mouilliette, the Pli and the Cloche.  The fragrances were then evaluated at the following time points:  5 minutes after application, one hour, 4 hours and 8 hours after application.

Materials

The classic mouilliette:  Used in perfumery for centuries, this is a long rectangular piece of paper measuring 1cm X 10cm.  Perfume is applied to one end of the mouilliette and then held in one hand on the opposite side.

The Pli;  This is a paper version that contains a slightly spherical part where the perfume is applied and smelled, and a rectangular part where the device can be held.  When not smelling the fragrance, the Pli can be placed face-down where the design retards evaporation.

The Cloche: This is a conical piece of glass with a small piece of silk placed into the end.  The fragrance is applied to the silk and then the user smells the open conical end.  When the fragrance is not being smelled the Cloche is placed on face-down where evaporation is slowed.

Benefit

One of the benefits of the these fragrance tools is that they allow the experience of the fragrance to be prolonged in order to get a full view of the composition, making it especially easy for the heart notes of the perfume to be experienced by the browsing consumer.
In addition both the Pli and the Cloche tend to concentrate the fragrance around the nose and give a more full impact to the consumer.  This allows the user to detect the fragrance notes much more easily and determine if this fragrance is in line with their personal preferences.
The Cloche and the Pli have the added advantage of being intuitive in their method of use, as it is easily understandable how one is supposed use the object to smell the fragrance.  The classic mouilliette tends to generate confusion as the consumer is sometimes unaware of the proper fashion to smell the fragrance.
Compared to the classic mouilliette, the cloche tends to maintain the fragrance for roughly double the amount of time: almost as if the fragrance is being smelled in slow motion.   The cloche can also be cleaned and reused whereas the paper objects are of course limited to a single use.  Perhaps the ideal situation is where a consumer could use the classic mouilliettes to evaluate the top notes and then use the Cloche or the Pli to evaluate the heart and base notes.  This situation would allow a browsing consumer to get a full understanding of the fragrance in a short amount of time.

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